![]() If you press the brake in this condition BOTH switches in the brake switch close. Now with the Emergency Brake OFF and key ON. Since the hydraulic pressure switches are already closed there is a complete path from ground through the emergency brake switch through the dash light to the fuse and the Brake Warning light lights telling you the Emergency Brake is on. If you pull the emergency brake handle, switch 40 will close. Because the key is not on no power is applied to the dash switch so it will not light even if there is a problem. This sends power from Fuse B through the brake switch (42) to the turn signal switch (43) and on to the brake lights which will light. If you press the brakes in this condition you close BOTH switches in the brake switch. So with the key off and brakes NOT applied the dash (41) light and the brake lights are off. The hydraulic brake pressure switches (44) are closed when the brakes are NOT applied which grounds the red wire on one side of the switch (42). (The brake lights go through the turn signal switch.)Ĥ4 are the hydraulic pressure switches on the dual master cylinder. The pic is confusing as hell but it is accurate.Ĥ1 is the brake warning light on the dashĤ3 is the turn signal switch. The attached pic shows how this is wired. The red wires are part of the brake check circuit on the dual master. If you don't have a dual master with the brake warning switches then you only need the two green wires. If you have the time you can take the switch apart and clean the contacts and check the springs are not broken or out of place. Installation of the new part, whichever it is, is the exact opposite.Sounds like a bad switch. That's much easier: Pop the connector out and screw the old switch out. ![]() One of my other references shows it as a switch that's threaded into a bracket and has only two wires going to it. ![]() Be patient, use a few choice cusswords to convince it you're stronger and better (make sure no young ears are around first) and wiggle up and down and back and forth as you pull. If this is the baby we're talking about, it simply clips in and out.ĭisconnecting the harness at that angle isn't going to be easy. But it could also be that those clips have bolts to secure them. The picture leads me to believe that it is simply clipped to the pedal and bracket. My reference material simply states: If the switch fails this test, replace it and gives no procedure for it. Seriously, it's not easy to get to, even for someone that's small. I'm going to presume that you mean the one on the brake pedal. ![]() Go to the below link for an additional discussion on this: Be careful to disconnect the small cable that goes to the shift indicator - or you'll break it and compound your problem. It has only two nuts and it makes the switch much more accessible. I will use the forum again and I will donate next time.Īlso, anyone changing this switch, you can save yourself a LOT of trouble by dropping the steering column down. So I know this is the right switch for that year but it probably covers several years including the '96 that you just mentioned. I have no idea how I did this but, once again, I screwed something up.īy the way, I went to a different vender (Checkers as opposed to NAPA) and they also pulled the same switch. I took it off again, found the problem, fixed it and reinstalled it. In this position, it was not pushing on the slide-switch properly and therefore, would not engage the stop lights. When I installed the new switch, somehow I cocked the gold trigger - it came out of it holder.
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